| To be honest, I never thought I'd ever see two extra boost hoses sitting in my engine bay. Thankfully, due to the generous members of TT.net, classifieds and 'search', I was about to acquire everything I needed and then some for a reasonable price. Although I've lost track, I know I'm above the 2,000 mark but most likely under 2,500 bucks for the conversion. It was a lot of work. So much work, that I often got side tracked moving from one task to another. Below is a list of unexpected expenditures that I encountered during this project.
-All new fuel lines and clamps
-All new water and vacuum lines, including lines for boost controller
-Tools, I had to buy a few larger sized wrenches, drill bits, a drill, engine stand, a good jack, some jack stands, etc.
-Permatex
-Various bits from the hardware store Special Thanks
Bernie for answering my sometimes random and desperate questions and selling me a nice egr plug
Greg, also for answering questions
Andrew for providing numerous parts for my project at very affordable prices
Coz for the usual stuff
Magnum for the ecu chip
Josh, for helping me getting the transmission stabbed
and last but not least, Antonio (suprakillinz). Now, I know he doesn't have the best of reputations around here, but he helped me out a lot with his experience with pulling and reinstalling the motor, transmission, and finding boost leaks. Thanks again guys The motor was acquired from Andrew(nj) in the Elizabeth area. In case you didn't see the post, Antonio (suprakillinz) was nice enough to lend and hand with pulling Andrew's motor and he was also nice enough to let me borrow his engine hoist, power washer, boost leak tester. First was the engine prepping, capped off all unnecessary lines, plenum pull, removing the egr system and fabricating plates to block the plenum opening, installing painted valve covers and timing belt covers, new lifters, new oil pan, removal of all extra water lines under the plenum, water line bypasses with all new hoses, removal of pcv system with a catch can setup, and hooking up new hoses for the oil cooler.
Oil pan switch-er-u
 I also decided to go with the ford motor mounts (hey they're only 20 bucks)
 Shows the PCV routing
 Almost ready to go in
 This was all done in the early months of April. Amazingly, my fiance didn't even notice that I had bought a motor, brought it home and had been working on it for several weeks.
Fast forward to April 27th. The remaining is primiarly in a journal/rough notes format. I think it may serve has a guide/reference for those that are about to partake in such a project.
Day 1
Removed the following:
exhaust, driveshaft, bumper, headlights, corner lights, center panel, transmission and motor, and engine crossmember. Also removed aiv and carbon canistor junk I also drove to Andrews and grabbed his one good control arms (just for the hell of it), stock couplers (from IC pipe to intercooler) and engine crossmember (mine was a bit bent on one side). 
Day 2 Friday
Drilled out new crossmember for ford motor mounts and installed it. Reinstalled the rest of the front suspension. Removed all a/c junk and installed tt condenser, bent all necessary hoses, put on fitting for freeze 12. Installed ic pipes. Patched up my transmission, see below. Installed VR4 rotor kit from MWS, thanks guys. Notes on the A/C junk:
I used all the NA lines accept for one in the front of the condensor. It is located on the passenger side that goes from the condesor to the dryer. It is also rather short, maybe a foot at the most. I chose to go with the freeze 12 route as it is a bit more environmental safe that r12 and is significantly cheaper and I can do it myself. Also, I had difficulty installing the NA A/C fan (it wouldn't clear the stock recirc valves). Still need to pick up the tt fan. Comparsion of the old crossmember (top) to Andrew's (bottom).
This shot slows the location of the leak on my tranmission. Ended up JB Welding it (after some substancial cleaning). So far, it's holding up just fine.
The VR rotor kit comparsion to stock. Btw, it just barely clears the stock wheels.
 Day 3 Saturday
Fabraicated plates to secure the ic pipes. If you look at a real TT chasis, there are tabs welded to the upper radiator support that holed the IC pipes in place. You'll have to make them.
Installed intercoolers and recirc valves. Passenger side recirc valve was extremely difficult to get the stock hose to fit. Replaced all the hard to reach fuel hoses.
Dirty engine bay shot with a/c and ic pipes mounted (sort of).
Preped the new motor with new fuel lines, etc.
Day 4
Swapped out upper ps bracket from na to tt motor, my new detonation sensor, and oil pressure sending unit. Powerwashed the engine bay (with 3 cans of engine brite), reinstalled motor, clutch, a/c compressor, got transmission half bolted in. Thanks again Josh and Antonio.
Before getting the tranny in, Antonio recalled that when it was in Andrew's car, it was missing lower bolts on the tranny. Turns out, that for some bizarre reason, the dust plate would not line up for the two bolts on the drivers side. The only feasible solution was to drill the plate out, which is what I did. For kicks and giggles
Antonio in his Sunday best
Andrew's clutch and flywheel
The money shot
 From here, I had to go back to work and just worked on it at nights and the weekends. If I had more time and didn't have to wait for a few parts here and there, I would have been able to start it much sooner. Day 8,wed attempted to install ps pump, wasn't fitting
Day 9 thurs, attempted ps pump again, swapped out lower bracket and installed the remaining accessories and belts Notes: Both NA and TT power steering brackets (there are two on each car) appear to be different. Day 10, fri realized that I put the water pump pulley on backwards and put the belts on incorrectly. Reinstalled belts correctly, installed main boost hoses (4) Day 12 sunday
Few up with waiting for Antonio to show up, bolted up the transmission with no problems. (it actually turned out to be easier that I thought). The original problem of the tranny not lining up to all the bolt holes and to the pins was solved by loosening all the bolts and rotating the transmission slightly. Ran hoses for the boost controller and plugged up any open vac lines. Day 13 Monday
Ecu chip and missing elbow for the ic showed up today.
Filled the transmission with redline mtl. Installed test pipes and exhaust. Had some difficulty getting the megan test pipes to line up with the labree catback but it managed. Fabricated my own radiator mounts to work with the TT radiator.
Wired up the air horns
Installed the ecu chip
Installed the samco 45 hose (I was missing that one small 45 from IC pipe to intercooler) Attempted to start her up and blew a fusible link, link failure was for the following reason. When reinstalling the starter, a black line that is crimped to the starter broke off. Thinking this was a ground, I grounded the wire to another spot. It took out power to the ecu, gauge warning lights and a few other things. Resoldered and crimped the wire back.
Antonio and Josh finally show up.
Started her up. Fired on the 2nd attempted (prolly getting fuel pressure) and purred like a kitten :) Test drive, massive boost leak... Day 14 Tuesday
Boost leak test ran, kind of difficult without a suitable air compressor. Turned out to be one of the vaccum caps I had used on the filter to turbo accordion hose to cap off the pcv system. Replaced with a new cap. Day 15 Wednesday
Started her up, still only pulling –15 hg/mm and definitely still has another boost leak.
So that's where I'm at now. The first few times driving it, even with a boost leak (running at 6 psi or so), It already feels faster than my NA. I'm leaving for vacation this weekend, so I should hopefully have everything solved with a week or two.
It's a shit load of work. Being asked if it's a twin turbo and just smiling, Priceless.
Alex 
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Sinces it's TT conversion day... pic heavy - 
